Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Bouldering in the Burren at Oughtdarra

Leaba Na hAon Bho in Oughtdarra is an inland crag a little further up the road pass Ballyryan crags in the Burren (park at the Crumlin stone sign).
It's a bouldering option when Doolin boulders are soaked by sea spray - because the same sea wind that sprays the boulders in Doolin dries those further up inland.

Tayto Boulder - South Face

The cracks and features of this boulder were filed with empty crisp bags. 
This may be part of a local cult but given the proximity to the crags, it is possible that this dirty practice belongs to various social groups including hill walkers and climbers. 
I sincerely hope I'm wrong.
I've removed many of these bags but if you find some more, please take them home. 
The Burren is no one's backyard. 

1. Tayto, 5. Sit-start in the groove crack and go straight up to top out.
2. Mister Tayto, 6a. Same start but traverse the diagonal crack to reach holds beyond the round prow then top out.
3. The man inside the jacket, 6c. Traverse from far left (sit-start on big vertical crack) and link into 'Mister Tayto'.

The reach (6a?)

The cool moves of this problem are actually the start to a trad route called The Reach (E1 6a).
Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket and reach far right for an obvious crack. After this, it's either an easy highball or a jump off back to the bouldering mat.

 Arán Is Im 

1.  Arán, 5. Sit-start on the bottom right of the prow and climb it straight up on sharp holds. Top out.
2.  Im, 6a. Stand start on the left side (north facing) and climb up using a system of cracks. Top out.
3.  Arán is im , 7a. Hard link. Sit-start on Arán but cross leftwards using a slopey crimp (right hand) on the arête to reach the cracks to the left. Then finish up as for Im.