Thursday, 26 March 2015

Bouldering at Agassiz rock, Agassize XL

Agassize XL

An undocumented L-R traverse that follows the line of least resistance of the entire crag.

Start at Rock-over (6a). 
Follow the High Traverse (aka Louie-Louie, 6b) until it runs out and move into the high groove (resting is cheating!).
Then follow a line of good crimps above the shield and settle on jugs. Make a long move to the crimps of Passing the prow (7a+, first crux). A technical sequence allows to drop onto a juggy shelf.
From the shelf, easier moves allow to step onto a big solid boss shield.
From the shield move around the corner and drop into an overhanging crimpy traverse (second crux) till you reach a big jug on the lip of the black slab. 
Match hands on the jug, rock on the slab and finish it up.

Grade is roughly f7b/+. 

Since it's roughly 70 moves, it's probably worth F8a-ish in sport climbing money but I don't do sport climbing so I wouldn't know :-)

Saturday, 14 March 2015

Bouldering at Salisbury Crags - Devo Max Traverse

Devo Max Traverse, 7a

Undocumented Line - Eliminate of 'Non-Juggy Traverse'

Traverse left to right as per 'Non-Juggy Traverse' to reach the sloping boss (no jugs allowed). 
Stay on slopers and move over the lip of the small roof till you match a bore hole rail (small crimp, crux). 
A knee bar allows to reach the higher part of the sloppy arete up (no jugs allowed on either side).
Finish standing above in a groove corner.

7a+ without the knee bar? ;-)