Monday 22 September 2014

Bouldering at Hummell rocks (II)

Hummell wall - Gullane beach (near Edinburgh)

I've climbed another few problems on the mini-cliff wall of Hummell Rocks, at Gullane beach, near Edinburgh (East Lothian).

Don't use any hard/wire brushes pretty please!



1. Prow, 4. Can be topped out but descent is harder than the ascent.

2. Prow eliminate, 6b. Any holds on  the left side of the round prow is out. Sit start at obvious twin side pulls and move up on crimps till the top.

3. Tangology, 7a. Sit start on two big flatties. Make an awkward step leftward to small edges. Settle using a vague thumb catch side sloper, before launching to juggy holds above. Finish more easily but high or jump off.


4. Rise of the caveman, 6a+. Eliminate - no bridging allowed on the right or left.  Sit-start at the mini-cave on good flatties. Rock onto a left foothold to reach a higher flat ledge. Reach high and leftward to a good wide edge. Finish at the line of jugs above.



4. High and dry, 6a. Easier for the tall. From the sandy hole or the small edge, launch up to reach a hidden jug. Move up and rightwards to good holds. Jump off or finish up (not recommended on your own).

Monday 15 September 2014

Bouldering at Hummell rocks

Hummell wall - Gullane beach (near Edinburgh)


I've climbed a few problems on the mini-cliff wall passed Hummell rocks, at Gullane beach, near Edinburgh (East Lothian). The ones below are the least sandy, but you will still need a gentle brush to clean off the holds (especially after kids' sand battles).

Don't use any hard/wire brushes pretty please!


1. Crimpy arête, 6a. Stand start on a two fingers pocket hole and climb the vague arête on crimps. escape and descent leftward on the slab.

2. Hummeliation, 6b. Step up from the finger tips pockety crack at head height and slap to crimps. Then up and finish as previous.

2 bis. Humiliation, 7a. As previous but start hanging both hands on the finger tips pockety crack.

3. Slab and wall, 5+. Step onto the slab then traverse left onto the wall and finish as previous.


4. Mini-Roof, 6a+. SS under the mini-roof, rock over the lip and finish up as high as you wish. Nice problem with a perfect landing (no mat required!!!).

There's a small alley at the back of the wall, which looks nice. Unfortunately, all the lines are easy and the place gets interesting only once you start eliminating: