Monday, 18 August 2014

Bouldering at Agassiz rock - The Lock Reloaded

Agassiz rock, Blackford Hill, Edinburgh


A major hold of the crag, an undercutting finger pocket under the small roof of the overhang, is completely gone. A flat edge remains, which opens potential for new versions of the classic lines.

Here's one of my owns, The Lock Reloaded, a cool sit-start that includes a couple of dynamic slaps and a high (but easy) top out:

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Bouldering near Edinburgh

Agassiz Rock Top-outs




The following problems can all top out. Descent can be done leftwards, via the small path at the top of the crag. Take care!

1. Rock over, 6a

Sit-start on pockets (heel hook right) to crimps above. Then rock over using a flat pinch, then top out.

2. Hula’s hop, 6a

Sit-start on small but positive pocket edges  to the big jugs above. Sort feet and reach for a crimp right hand and a hidden sharp side pull left end. Hop up onto the big ledge to the left and top out as the Rock over.

3. Step up, 4+

Sit-start as for Hula’s hop. A flat square edge above the line of big jugs leads to a hidden but good hold to the right of the bulge. Using it, step up onto the line of jugs and finish easily rightwards and up.

4. The Lock reloaded, 7a

A reload of the old "Lock" problem (see Stone Country press’ Bouldering in Scotland 2008 guidebook, page 60) after the "wobbly jug finger-lock" fell off. 

Sit-start at the base of the overhang and gain the heavily chalked up polished rail. From this rail, grab the undercut flat edge under the roof, sort feet out and lunge up for the sloper above. Match this sloper and lunge up again to a good jug (dynamic move) at the top of the overhang. Top out leftward on bigger holds (high).

5. Low Traverse, 7b

As per Stone Country guide to Bouldering in Scotland's description (2008, page 60).