Tuesday, 22 April 2014

Loch nam Breac (Trouts Lake)

Bouldering near Gairloch/Poolewe, Loch nam Breac (Aztec Tower), Ross & Cromarty, Highland

Map of boulders near Loch nam Breac, Gairloch, Ross and Cromarty
Map of the boulders

1. Pressing is cheating, traverse round the flat boulder (knock 2 grades off for each press rest!) 6c
2. Ommff, SS, eliminate, rock over from lower flake, 5

1. Pressing is cheating, 6c
3. Pull your cac together, SS, 6b+

4. An Uaimh, SS, 6c

5. Taobh grianach na bheatha, highball-ish, hang start on jugs to the left (foot jam), 7a
6. Siubhdaibh a nigheanan! Climb the left side of the arête from a stand start, 6c
7. An Balla, 6a
8. Wee Dram, SS/deadpoint and rockover, 6b

9. Desperate project: 
overhanging blank face in a pit (roughly 4 m high, the picture doesn't give it fair credit)

10. Return of the Ommff, rock onto the slab from a SS, 6a
11. An Leac, middle part, 4
12. Arête, 3
13. Original route direct, high and technical at the end, 6a
14. Original route, existing brushed up undocumented line, 5
15. The Ommff with a vengeance, SS, eliminate, technical wall avoiding the arete, 6b

16. The Auld Layback, climb the left side of the right corner, 4

Gairloch coast

Bouldering near Gairloch (Carn Dearg YH/Sands camping) and North Erradale, Ross & Cromarty, Highlands

1. Black wall, SS, 3
2. Tank Top, SS + traverse, 5
3. Sex air an traìgh, SS/dyno, 7a
4. Topless, SS/deadpoint from crimps, 6b
5. An Buntàta reamhar, eliminate: double dyno (both hands) from SS, 6c

6. Font & low, SS, 6a
7. Font & low direct, SS, 6b
8. Project

Cave Area

Potential for highballs with bad landings or trad routes with good gear

9. Grug, SS from big sloper and deadpoint over the lip, 6a

10. The Croods' traverse, SS, 6b
11. Eep, SS to sloper traverse and mantelshelf and up, 5+
12. Guy, SS, wall and rock over mini-roof, 6a

13. Crack and flake wall, 5 (project from SS)

More bouldering/climbing potential around

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Finisterre - O Granito galego

Bouldering in Galicia - Finisterre trailer (Mens segment)

I've said many things along those lines before but here it goes:

"Far-off from Europe’s mainstream bouldering hotspots lies one of the continent’s most overlooked climbing regions.

Galicia, in the northwest of Spain, has many things to offer. Spectacular boulder fields litter the storm-tossed coast and the undulating hinterlands.

But it’s the locals that make this lovely spot of land so special. People like Ben de Corme or Finuco Martinez, who contributed to establish one of the most interesting bouldering areas, sparkle with motivation and hospitality.

Follow the three Austrians, David, Niko and Stefan, on a journey to the world’s end, where they find out, what bouldering in Galicia is all about".

Monday, 14 April 2014

Agassiz Rock - Undocumented boulder problems

Bouldering near Edinburgh, Agassiz Rock, Blackford Hill

Rock over, 6a. SS on pockets, rock over the mini low roof and top out using a flat pinch.

1. Passing the prow, SS deadpoint and traverse rightwards to finish on a big juggy shelf, 7a+, or continue rightwards and finish up the black slab at the extreme right round the corner, 7b-ish
2. Borehole, 6c. SS deadpoint from borehole, campus edges to the upper crack.

For existing documented problems : bouldering at Agassiz Rock, Blackford Hill, Edinburgh.